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The Climb - up Mount Ritter is great fun for experienced mountaineers. We choose the North Face route which is a little
more difficult than the more popular Southeast Glacier Route. Our climb which took place in July of 2006 turned out to be
much more of a snow and ice climb than we thought. This was due to the record snows that Mammoth Mountain area
received that year. What normally would have been an easy class three scramble for us turned out to be a class four route.
Snow and ice had covered the steep class three sections making then unsafe for travel. This forced us onto class four rock in
order to avoid the steep icy slopes. Fortunately we had about 60 feet of rope along, and this proved valuable for protecting a
few of the more exposed pitches. I would always recommend carrying a rope for any climb that involves class three climbing
and beyond for this reason. You never know when you may be either forced of route, or unknowingly get off route and end
up taking on more than you anticipated. Nevertheless, the climb went pretty smooth, and we ended up gaining about 60-70
percent of our vertical gain on snow and ice and the rest on rock. You should always carry rope, crampons, and ice ax on all
summit attempts in the Banner / Ritter Range.
more difficult than the more popular Southeast Glacier Route. Our climb which took place in July of 2006 turned out to be
much more of a snow and ice climb than we thought. This was due to the record snows that Mammoth Mountain area
received that year. What normally would have been an easy class three scramble for us turned out to be a class four route.
Snow and ice had covered the steep class three sections making then unsafe for travel. This forced us onto class four rock in
order to avoid the steep icy slopes. Fortunately we had about 60 feet of rope along, and this proved valuable for protecting a
few of the more exposed pitches. I would always recommend carrying a rope for any climb that involves class three climbing
and beyond for this reason. You never know when you may be either forced of route, or unknowingly get off route and end
up taking on more than you anticipated. Nevertheless, the climb went pretty smooth, and we ended up gaining about 60-70
percent of our vertical gain on snow and ice and the rest on rock. You should always carry rope, crampons, and ice ax on all
summit attempts in the Banner / Ritter Range.
Mount Ritter - The Climb timberlinetrails.net
Well under way before sunrise, we continue up the
snow field heading toward the Ritter/Banner saddle.
Pre-dawn starts are a great way to gain altitude
without battling the blazing high altitude sun. Crossing
snow fields is easy with headlamps in the dark. If the
terrain is more technical, you need to plan accordingly.
snow field heading toward the Ritter/Banner saddle.
Pre-dawn starts are a great way to gain altitude
without battling the blazing high altitude sun. Crossing
snow fields is easy with headlamps in the dark. If the
terrain is more technical, you need to plan accordingly.
Looking back down the ground we had covered
during the early morning hours we can barely make
out our campsite below. The sun is just rising and
we are nearing the Ritter/Banner saddle. We ended
up descended the easier southeast glacier rather
than our north face ascent route.
during the early morning hours we can barely make
out our campsite below. The sun is just rising and
we are nearing the Ritter/Banner saddle. We ended
up descended the easier southeast glacier rather
than our north face ascent route.
In the saddle between Ritter and Banner, we
contemplate the next section. After gaining the top
of this snow section, we meet up with the rock on
the north face route of Ritter. We always try to
make maximum use of good snow and ice in the
mountains. They are a great way to gain altitude
quickly if you are carrying an ice ax and are
wearing crampons.
contemplate the next section. After gaining the top
of this snow section, we meet up with the rock on
the north face route of Ritter. We always try to
make maximum use of good snow and ice in the
mountains. They are a great way to gain altitude
quickly if you are carrying an ice ax and are
wearing crampons.
Beautiful wild flowers growing out of the rocks
high up on Mt Ritter. Hardy plants such as the
one above take advantage of the sparsest of
soil, and create beauty in what would otherwise
be a very stark environment.
high up on Mt Ritter. Hardy plants such as the
one above take advantage of the sparsest of
soil, and create beauty in what would otherwise
be a very stark environment.
A fantastic view of a snow and ice wall high up on Mt Ritter.
Note the cornice at the top. Important to take notice of the
upper overhanging snow section. Impress this image in your
memory. It will help remind you, (once you get on top of this
structure), to not get too close to the edge. A tumble from up
there would not be pleasant.
Note the cornice at the top. Important to take notice of the
upper overhanging snow section. Impress this image in your
memory. It will help remind you, (once you get on top of this
structure), to not get too close to the edge. A tumble from up
there would not be pleasant.
This photo shows the upper section of the image
above. We traversed this ridge in order to maintain our
route. As mentioned above, we had the cornice and
steepness of the snow and ice wall in mind. We stayed
just enough to the left in order to avoid the dangerous
part of the cornice.
above. We traversed this ridge in order to maintain our
route. As mentioned above, we had the cornice and
steepness of the snow and ice wall in mind. We stayed
just enough to the left in order to avoid the dangerous
part of the cornice.
Great view of the Ritter/Banner saddle from just
above the exit of the snow and ice chute. Always
cool to be able to look back and see your progress.
Slow and steady gets the job done.
above the exit of the snow and ice chute. Always
cool to be able to look back and see your progress.
Slow and steady gets the job done.
Looking down on Banner Peak (center) from near
the summit of Mt Ritter. One of the many rewards
of mountain climbing, are the superb views. No
photo can capture the grandeur of actually being
there. The scale of our surroundings were
absolutely incredible.
the summit of Mt Ritter. One of the many rewards
of mountain climbing, are the superb views. No
photo can capture the grandeur of actually being
there. The scale of our surroundings were
absolutely incredible.
Sean and Eddie exiting the north face section, and
rounding a small block before reaching the final
summit approach. Not much more to go before
reaching the top of Mount Ritter.
rounding a small block before reaching the final
summit approach. Not much more to go before
reaching the top of Mount Ritter.
Mt Ritter Links
Base Camp
Getting Started
Trailhead
Along the Trail
High Camp
The Climb
Summit
Aerial View
Current Weather
Base Camp
Getting Started
Trailhead
Along the Trail
High Camp
The Climb
Summit
Aerial View
Current Weather
Other Mt Ritter / Ansel Adams Wilderness Links
Base Camp Getting Started Trailhead Along the Trail High Camp The Climb Aerial View Summit Current Weather
Base Camp Getting Started Trailhead Along the Trail High Camp The Climb Aerial View Summit Current Weather