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White Mountain Peak - Getting Started timberlinetrails.net
Unlike many approaches
to California's fine
mountainous regions, the
White Mountain Peak
vehicle approach is an
adventure all its own.
From steep paved
narrow canyon roads, to
16 miles of rough dirt
road, you can be sure
that it will be a trip you
will never forget. Reaching the White Mountains and the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest from Big Pine, California is about a 45
minute drive. From Big Pine, turn east up highway 168. Then travel 13 miles to White Mountain Road. From there turn left (Forest
Road) and continue another 7 miles to Schulman Grove (elevation 10,100 feet). Several beautiful turnouts are located on the White
Mt. Road. My favorite is the Sierra View Overlook (see photo below on right). Schulman Grove and Patriarch Grove (along the way)
are also worth visiting. Unlike in the Sierra Nevada, there is no need to get a permit to hike, climb, cycle, or ski to the
top of White Mountain Peak.
While there are restrictions against camping within the boundaries of the Bristlecone Pine Forest, camping is allowed outside the
previously mentioned area. Campfires are prohibited outside vehicles, but some sections on the mountain do allow campfires if you
have a proper permit. A permit can be obtained from the US Forest Service or at a nearby Ranger Station. Lastly, to prevent tire track
damage which remains on the landscape for years, vehicles are required to stay on established open roads only.
Along the way to White Mountain Peak, you will
pass a great scenic turnout where you can peer
across the Owens Valley. From there you will be
able to see a large section of the Sierra Nevada
Mountain Range.
To the right is a telephoto shot of the Palisade
Crest in the Sierra Nevada. This is the highest
continuous line up of peaks in the entire range.
Here you see five peaks that exceed 14,000 feet
all in a row. From left to right, are Mt Sill,
Polemonium Peak, North Palisade, Starlight Peak,
and finally Thunderbolt Peak. A sixth peak, just
out of view to the left, would be another 14,000
footer named Middle Palisade. The Palisade
Glacier is also visible in this image and it is the
largest glacier in the Sierra Nevada. Views like this
are just another bonus while traveling on White
Mountain.
To the left is an example of one of the
self-guided interpretive trails. Note the nice
concrete stairway that has been put into place to
ease your effort as you climb alongside the oldest
living things on earth.
There is also a second grove that is a 12-mile
drive north of Schulman Grove. You will pass
this grove on the way to the trailhead of White
Mountain. The grove is near tree line and it is the
home of the world's largest Bristlecone Pine, the
Patriarch Tree. The grove is named Patriarch
Grove after this giant Bristlecone Pine.
On one of our trips up White Mountain my
youngest son got altitude sick while sleeping at
the trailhead of White Mountain Peak. So we had
to abandon the climb. But rather than count it all
Even though Bristlecone Pine Trees occur in five other
western states, the oldest examples of the species are found
in the ancient forests located in the White Mountains of
California. Needless to say, these trees are tenacious of life,
and grow at elevations between 10,000 and 11,000 feet
(which is timberline in the White Mountains).
Adding to the difficulty and rigors of the high altitude
conditions of cold, wind, and lack of moisture, the oldest
trees end up living in outcrops of dolomite. Dolomite is an
alkaline calcareous substrate of low nutrient content. These
conditions, on the other hand, are somewhat compensated
for in that the dolomite rock has a higher moisture content
than the surrounding sandstone does.
Another benefit of dolomite is that it can reflect more
sunlight than other rocks, and this contributes to a cooler
and moister root zone. On your right, is an example of a
In the image to the right, snaking off into the
distance, you will see the dirt approach road. It
leads to the traditional locked gate starting point on
White Mountain. Scenes like this give you a sense
of isolation as you travel along the windswept
slopes of White Mountain.
Make sure you have plenty of fuel and that your
vehicle is in good working order before leaving the
main highway. Getting stuck in this remote area
would certainly take all the fun out of your trip. I
cannot imagine what the cost of getting a tow truck
way out here would be. Even though you will get
cell phone reception on the top of White Mountain
Peak, (and in other areas that have a clear shot
down to the Owens Valley), nearly all the dirt road
areas shown here are very isolated, and you will not
have the ability to call out.
As you continue on your 16
mile journey on the dirt
road, White Mountain Peak
will finally come into view
(as seen to the left). You
still have a ways to go from
this point, but you will be
there soon enough. The
interesting terrain helps the
time go by and there are
many photo opportunities.
Traveling on this road in the
late afternoon can be very
spectacular in its own way.
The White Mountains have
a landscape all their own
and the sub-alpine zone is
very different from other
mountainous regions around
the world. I believe you will
find it very special.
Here I have included a few photos (above and to
the right) to give you an idea of the variety of terrain
you will come across while traveling on White
Mountain. These photos were taken in the latter
part of June 2008. From complete barrenness(upper
right image) to the inviting light green grassy slopes,
White Mountain will delight your senses.
The light green grass combined with the snow and
isolated stone structure in the photo to the right,
reminded us of the Scottish Highlands. As I have so
often remarked, no photo can compare to what the
human eye is capable of taking in.
Adding to the beauty, is the quiet lonely
environment of the White Mountains. It gives one
the opportunity to reflect on the more subtle things
in life.
Well, were finally there, and if you look closely at
the photo to the left, you will see the locked gate
on the far left side. This is the starting point for a
traditional hike up White Mountain Peak. Also note
the light brown structure in the image. This is the
last public restroom you will come across. It is in
good shape and it is well stocked with toilet paper.
From the vantage point of the parking lot, you will
be able to see a spectacular view of the Sierra
Nevada Range across the Owens Valley, and if you
walk out a bit on the nearly flat terrain, you will get
an even better view.
This is as far as you go with your vehicle. From
here on you will need to be on foot or bicycle.
Hiking is much easier than cycling, when going up,
but I will take the bike any day for coming down!
The trailhead area has plenty of parking, and
when we arrived early evening on June 21st of
2008, we were nearly all alone (there was one
lone camper who left shortly after we arrived).
This was not the case on our July 4th 2009 hike
up White Mountain. When we arrived at around
5AM the next morning (after sleeping at about the
10,000 foot level further down the road), we saw
many campers sleeping in tents and in the backs
of their vehicles near the locked gate.
Camping at the trailhead is no problem, and there
are no restrictions (other than fires). But you will
need to be somewhat acclimated, because you
are at 11,670 feet above sea level. This can lead
to a nice headache or worse if you are not
accustomed to the altitude.
To the left is a view of the parking area and the
locked gate from a different vantage point. As you
can see, the trail is really not a trail, but a fairly
wide dirt road that is very similar to the one you
just traveled on. The first two miles lead to the
Barcroft Research Station, and the road is well
maintained to that point. From there on it gets
much rougher and narrower.
The final slopes to the summit get even tighter
and much steeper. You would need a pretty good
4-wheel drive vehicle to get to the top of White
Mountain via this method.
The road as mentioned before, is for employees
only, so the rest of us will have to travel on foot
or bicycle. I would say that 99% of the people I
have seen travel on foot.
To the right is a photo of a sunset near the
locked gate starting point on White Mountain.
The air is extremely dry and the location is far
away from major areas of civilization. This
keeps the air very crisp and clean, and makes for
beautiful blue skies and vibrant colors.
The nights are special too. Sleeping out under the
stars is a great experience. On White Mountain
(on a moonless night) you will be able to see a
blanket of stars and a clear view of the edge of
our Milky Way Galaxy. If you have a telescope,
White Mountain would be a great place for it.
With fewer and fewer places on earth where you
can go and get away from it all, White Mountain
begins to take on an even more important place
in the hearts of those who take the time out to
visit it's barren slopes.
are allowed to drive motorized vehicles to the research station. The last section of pavement is just above the Patriarch Grove at
11,500 feet, and it will give you a short break from the pounding dirt road. It is very likely the highest paved road in the whole state of
California. You will also be passing the Patriarch Grove along the way, and a visit is well worth your time. There you will see the
oldest living things on earth. The Bristlecone Pines.
Silver Canyon Road, and Wyman Canyon Road, will give you access to the town of Bishop, California. These are dedicated 4-wheel
drive roads. We took Silver Canyon Road up from Bishop on our first ascent of White Mountain Peak. The road was certainly rough,
and some nice size puddles of water had accumulated after a recent rain. This only added to our 4-wheel drive adventure.
As mentioned above, to get to your starting point
for your hike up White Mountain Peak, you must
turn off highway 168 just past Westgard Pass at
around the 7,200 foot level and onto a dirt road.
The road is fairly rough, but it can easily be done
in a 2-wheel drive vehicle if you take your time.
Roads like this do have a tendency to loosen up
the underpinnings of your car or truck, and that
can produce some very annoying rattles latter on
(vehicle rattles drive me crazy). But if you take it
easy, you can minimize these negative side
affects.
The dirt section consists of a long 16 miles to the
locked gate where you will begin your hike to the
summit of White Mountain. The Barcroft Station
(as you can see on the sign to the left) is 2 miles
from the locked gate, but the 2 miles will need to
be done on foot, since only Barcroft personnel
During the winter of
2004-2005, the White
Mountains, along with the
Sierra Nevada and other
surrounding areas received
the heaviest snowfall in a
100 years. Later on Death
Valley had a flower bloom
that was second to none.
To the right, you see the
White Mountains reflected
in a rarely formed lake of
still water located in the
Owens Valley. My son
Sean took this photo during
that special winter of 2005.
After traveling the globe,
world renowned
photographer Galen
Rowell, considered the
Owens Valley one of the
most beautiful places on
earth.
In the upper right hand image, is the Schulman Grove Visitor Center. It is usually open from late May through the end of October. At
the Visitor Center you will be able to make a quick study of the oldest living trees in the world. The center also has exhibits, a sales
area, and a natural history section. Nearby, there are self-guided interpretive trails. All that you learned in the center will come to life if
you take the time out to hike among these timeless treasures.
In the top left hand image, you can see a few examples of these ancient living relics. The cost is $3.00 per adult up to a maximum of
$5.00 per vehicle; children under 18 are free. All the US Golden Passes are accepted, but if you do not have a pass, fees are collected
at the Visitor Center during operating hours, or a self-service fee tube is located near the Visitor Center for after hours payment.
loss, we dropped down a bit, and spent the day exploring the Patriarch Grove. We found that it was time well spent. Always plan to
have your camera along. You will not want to miss getting some photos of the many fine specimens you will come across.
The Schulman Grove is named after Edmund Schulman who began his career of tree dating (dendrochronology) in 1932. At that
time, he was an assistant to A.E. Douglass in the "Tree-Ring Laboratory of Research" located at the University of Arizona. Schulman
had a background in astronomy, and he used his astronomy background to relate cosmic events to the science of tree-ring dating.
In 1958 Schulman and his colleagues prepared an article for National Geographic and it later brought worldwide attention to the White
Mountains. But unfortunately, Edmund Schulman never lived to see the article published. He was struck down by a heart attack in
1958 at the young age of 49 just before the article was published. But happily in that same year, the U.S. Forest Service did establish
the 28,000 acre Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, and named one of the sections Schulman Memorial Grove, to honor his contribution
to the world.
The White Mountains have much to offer. Hopefully our getting started page has not only tuned you in on how to plan for your hike
or climb up White Mountain Peak, but has also alerted you to the other activities that you can enjoy along the way. Over the years I
have found that half the fun (if not more) of hiking, backpacking, mountaineering, and climbing is getting there. So always try and
reserve a little time for side trips. They can add much to any adventure you go on.
For more information and photos on traveling, hiking, and exploring White Mountain, please make use of the below links.
gnarled, wind polished Bristlecone Pine. The wood is beautifully sculptured by the harsh environment of the White Mountains, and
even after dying, the structure will continue to be polished by the wind driven ice and sand. In the end, the remains will often take on
the appearance of a ghostly apparition during a moon lite night.
Bristlecone pine needles can live from twenty to thirty years old. This reduces the amount of energy that is normally required for
needle production each year by traditional pine trees, and the older needles also provide a stable photosynthetic environment to sustain
life during years of severe stress. Another benefit to long lived needles is that the trees do not produce a lot of debris on the ground.
This greatly reduces the risk of spreading fire after a lightning strike on a neighboring tree. Another key to longevity for the
Bristlecone Pine is that invasion from bacteria, fungus and insects are unknown to the Bristlecone. This is because the trees have a
dense, highly resinous wood that is impervious to the aforementioned problems. The White Mountains also have the driest air in the
world and this helps keep the trees from rotting.
Bristlecone Pines grow very slowly, and the short 45 day growing season along with inhospitable conditions only add to the slow
growth. It will take upwards of a hundred years to add just an inch of girth to these very special trees. This along with many other
reasons is why care must be taken when visiting the groves. Stay on designated paths and avoid human contact with the trees.
Climbing and or walking on the fragile root system can greatly reduce the life of these ancient trees.
Bristlecones can reach a height of 60 feet, but most never reach that lofty a stature. The Patriarch Tree which is located in the, (well
you guessed it), the Patriarch Grove, is 36' 8" in girth. This makes it the most robust of the Bristlecones. This particular tree is
relatively young at the age of 1,500 years, but it is older than the average Bristlecone Pine which clocks out at about 1,000 years.
Very few trees have reached the 4,000 year mark, but the "Pine Alpha" is one of the exceptions. In 1957 it was renamed
"Methuselah" after the oldest human ever recorded in the Bible. Methuselah (the tree) was found to be 4,723 years old and has the
distinction of being the oldest known living thing on earth. The location is being held secret so that visitors (sad to say) will not be
tempted to vandalize it.
I cycled to about the halfway point on one of our White Mountain outings, and I have to say that White Mountain is a killer climb on a
bicycle. This is no doubt due to the fact that the air is much thinner than what most cyclists experience, and the road is pretty steep.
Also, there are lots of rocks to avoid and this makes travel even more difficult.
The evening before setting out for the peak, I took my mountain bike up the road (that you see in the photo above) for a little
experiment to see just how tough it was going to be in the morning. But while coming down I hit, what I thought, was a no big deal of
a rock. However, it was just enough to pinch the tube in my front tire. It totally flatten it, and I didn't have a spare tube. So I ended up
using my friend's mountain bike the next day while he and my oldest son and his friend hiked to the top of the mountain on foot. In
the meantime, I spent the day playing around with the bike and went (as mentioned above) to about the halfway point. Later on, I
was told that you need to keep your mountain bike tires at a high pressure in order to avoid such a mishap. Carrying along a spare
tube would also be an obvious precaution. Sometimes you end up thinking about these things after the fact.
SUMMARY:
- White Mountain can be easily reached from the town of Big Pine or Bishop located along California Highway 395. See above
for directions.
- Make sure your vehicle is in good working order, and that it has plenty of fuel. The final approach is a remote dirt road, and
breaking down could be both costly and very inconvenient to say the least. In winter time, a vehicle malfunction could become
downright dangerous.
- Have proper clothing, and plenty of water along. White Mountain temperatures are capable of going well below freezing, and
water sources are very unreliable. White Mountain is also known for its cold and often times ferocious winds, especially in
winter months. So make sure you carry along a good wind breaker. This will enable your insulating layer of clothing to perform
as designed.
- White Mountain's air is the driest on earth. So make sure to drink often. Proper hydration will help you alleviate cramping and
other ill effects, such as high altitude sickness.
- Try and reserve time on your trip to explore the Bristlecone Pine Forests. The Schulman and Patriarch Groves are unique in all
the world and are home to the oldest living things on earth.
- White Mountain is the easiest fourteen thousand foot peak in California. The challenge of gaining the summit is not the technical
difficulty, but the altitude. Travelers coming from lower elevations will gain many thousands of vertical feet in their vehicle and
will quickly reach the traditional 11,670 foot starting point for a hike or climb to the summit. This is a ticket for altitude sickness.
If you find yourself subject to this ailment, then it would be best to spend a night or two at a lower elevation to acclimate. This
will give you a better chance for success and lessen the possibility of annoying headaches, nausea, and/or something worse. I
usually require one night at nine or ten thousand feet before going on to the summit of White Mountain.
- Always carry a headlamp on all mountain adventures. The distance from the locked gate to the summit and back is 14 miles.
Even though White Mountain is the least difficult of California's 14ers, it still will require stamina and endurance for the round
trip. People who start out late in the day, or find themselves resting and sitting a lot, may get caught on the mountain after
sunset. A headlamp will enable one to continue in the dark with relative safety due to the easier conditions of hiking on a fire
road during the summer months. But without a headlamp, you may find yourself dangerously stumbling about in the dark trying
to negotiate your path.
- It is always best to start out early in the mountains. We try and get started before 6AM or earlier on White Mountain. This way
we can get back down to the trailhead by early afternoon and drive off the mountain before nightfall. An early start also enables
you to avoid the heat of the high altitude sun on the lower sections of the trail.
- If cycling is your thing, then make sure to pump your tires up to the highest pressure that is safely allowed. The dirt road to the
top is filled with many unforgiving rocks, and they can easily slash tires and/or pinch tubes. You will also need to be in top
physical condition. Cycling to the top of White Mountain is brutal work, and it is far more difficult to cycle to the top than to
hike there. Thin air and steep slopes will challenge even the best of cyclists. So if you are not in fantastic shape, plan on hiking
to the summit (this is not to say that you will not need to be in decent condition to make the summit on foot). Otherwise, you
will end up pushing your bike much of the time, and this will defeat the whole purpose of even bringing it along. Once on top,
the advantage turns from the hiker to the cyclist, big time......But you will now need to be even more careful. Increased speed
on the way down will escalate the danger of hitting a sharp or large rock. This could put an instant end to an otherwise quick
descent.
- As always, practice good mountain sense. Never travel alone, and let loved ones know what route you plan to take and when
you plan on returning. Many novices will attempt the hike up White Mountain and some will bite off more than they can chew.
Mt Whitney also has a trail to the top, but every year (according to the Inyo National Forest Site) visitors become sick, injured; and
sometimes die. Almost all illnesses, injuries and fatalities occur on Mt. Whitney’s "easiest" routes (including the Mt. Whitney
Trail as previously mentioned).