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Mt Whitney - Trail Guide timberlinetrails.net
The Mt Whitney Trail is a well maintained 11 mile foot path to the summit of Mt Whitney. The trail
begins at 8,360 Ft, and ends at the 14,497 Ft summit of Mt Whitney. This places the total elevation gain at
6,137 Ft. I would rate Mt Whitney as the third easiest of the fifteen California peaks (that soar above fourteen
thousand feet) behind White Mountain and Mount Langley. But Mt Whitney (due to it being the tallest peak
in the continental United States) receives the heaviest traffic by far of all the peaks in the Sierra Nevada
Mountains.
Once you have finished making all your last minute preparations and
got that group send off photo at the Whitney Portal Trail Head area, you
are ready to get started up the trail. It starts off fairly easy, and
is fairly smooth in comparison to what is to come latter on.
In early season the lower section of
the trail is graced with beautiful
green ferns and other plant life as
seen in the photo to the left. Latter in the
season things dry out and your
surroundings are not quite so lush.
About a mile up the trail, you will come
to a trail marker that points the way to
the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. If
you are tackling one of the East Face
Routes, the Mountaineer's Route, or
are climbing Mt Russel, then you do not
want to miss this turnoff. I have met
up with people that have ventured well
up the North Fork who thought they were
on the Mt Whitney Main Trail, and also
with folks that were well on their way up the main trail, only to find out that
they missed the turnoff for their intended trip up Whitney's Mountaineer's route. So pay close attention to this
trail marker located at about the one mile mark. It's no fun wasting energy by both climbing up, and then
backtracking down to get back on route.
I have been up both forks several times, and I have to tell you, that the
North Fork of Lone Pine Creek is nothing like the Main Mt Whitney
Trail. The North Fork is much rougher, and if you get off course you will
find yourself doing some nasty bushwhacking in the lower section (along
the infamous creek bed). The image to the left shows what comes right
after passing the North Fork trail marker on the main trail. It is a small
stone crossing of the Lone Pine Creek drainage. If your intention was to
turn off the main trail and proceed up the North Fork and you find
yourself in the photo to the left, then you have just missed the turnoff.
After you cross Lone Pine Creek, the trail continues to meander and
switchback up the canyon on easy terrain. At times you think you are not
making much progress, but just a quick glance down the canyon in the
vicinity of the Portal Parking lot will tell you otherwise. The vehicles
and roadways down there now look like a toy Micro Machine setup.
Shortly after the crossing of Lone Pine Creek, (above) you
will enter the John Muir Wilderness (as shown in the photo
to the right). The John Muir Wilderness extends along the
crest of the Sierra Nevada of California, for approximately
100 miles, in the Inyo and Sierra National Forests.
Established in 1964 by the Wilderness Act, and named for
naturalist John Muir, it contains 581,000 acres. The
wilderness extends from Reds Meadow (near Mammoth
Mountain) in the north, to south of Mount Whitney. The
wilderness area also spans the Sierra north of
Kings Canyon National Park, and extends on the west side
of the park down to the Monarch Wilderness.
The next big landmark coming up at the 2.8 mile
mark is Lone Pine Lake. This beautiful Sierra
Lake is situated at 9,900 Ft of elevation. You
have now gained 1,560 feet or almost a quarter
of your total elevation gain to the top of Mount
Whitney. You will know that you are very close
to Lone Pine Lake by the cool split log crossing
shown to the left. It has been around since I first
climbed Mt Whitney in the early 1970's and was
still there on our June trip in 2007.
Lone Pine Lake (shown in the photo below) is a great destination for kids who are just getting started in the
outdoors. It is only 2.8 miles from the trailhead, and affords super camping areas not far from it's shores.
(remember to camp at least 100 feet from any water source) You also do not need the hard to get Main
Whitney Trail permit, if you are going no further the Lone Pine Lake. (but you still need a regular wilderness
permit if you intend to spend the night). Kids will love the adventure, and it is a great way to introduce them
to the wilderness without having to push them up something that is too difficult for their little legs (like trying
to go to the summit of Mt Whitney and having them fail and not want to ever come back).
To get to the shores of Lone
Pine Lake, you will need to
turn off the main trail (at the
trail marker shown above and to the right), and take a short hike down hill. My wife and I spent several
outings backpacking up to Lone Pine Lake for the night. Being out in the wilderness at Lone Pine Lake was a
fantastic way to take a short break from the hustle and bustle of city life. Note the huge thunderhead forming
in the background of the image above. The ominous clouds are
developing down below above the Owens Valley and have now risen
above the 10,000 foot level. Needless to say, we had a torrential rain
that night, but that ingredient only added to the excitement, for we were
well prepared to weather the storm with our tent and attached rain fly.
We had started the day with pure blue skies and ended with night time
thundershowers. This is why you need to always carry rain protection
with you on Mt Whitney or any wilderness terrain. You never know
what will develop as the day rolls on.
Shortly after passing by Lone Pine Lake, you will be greeted with the
sign (shown in the photo to the right), warning you that you are entering
the Whitney Zone, and that a special permit is required for all hikers and
overnight backpackers. If you do not have the proper permit, and the Ranger catches you, (very likely) then
you will be escorted off the mountain and possibly fined. So make sure you have the proper paperwork with
you at all times.
Once past Lone Pine Lake, it is only one mile further to Outpost Camp. This
camp is located at 3.8 miles from the start, and at an elevation of 10,400 feet.
As you approach this beautiful meadow (where Outpost Camp is located), you
will find yourself descending a bit (see photo to the left) before reaching the
meadows below. Established campsites are located at the far end of the
area, so continue to hike along until you reach these sites (if your plans are for
spending the night here). If you are not on a one day push to the summit,
Outpost Camp is a great place to spend the night or take a break if your
plans are for a one day outing (or if you plan on camping up higher at Trail
Camp).
Outpost Camp has fantastic
well established sites that
are wonderfully level and
they have a nice sandy base
to boot. This makes for easy
tent setup, and comfortable
sleeping. There are several
of these sites, so finding
one should not be a problem
except on the highest volume weekends in July and August. There is also a good water source for most times
of the year, but it still must be pumped for safety. This camp is down stream from the heavily populated Trail
Camp above, so drinking straight out of the streams is not an option. Make sure that you treat your water
either by boiling it, filtering it, chemically treating it, or any combination of the aforementioned.
At Outpost Camp, you
are still surrounded by
imposing granite walls.
In the photo to the
left, you see Thor
Peak at 12,300 feet
towering above camp
in the background.
But once you reach
the summit you will
look down on Thor
Peak like it was no
big deal.
As you proceed up the trail (after your visit to Outpost Camp), you will be able to look back and get a great
view of the meadows below (as shown in the above right hand photo). Having extra time on Mt Whitney will
enable you to take time out to enjoy these camps. So many people are in such a rush on the mountain that
they are hardly able to take time out and enjoy the magnificent surroundings that Mt Whitney has to offer.
Next point of interest only 0.2 miles and 240 vertical
feet further up the trail from Outpost Camp is
Mirror Lake (located 4.0 miles from trailhead at
10,640 feet). Mirror Lake is basically for viewing
only since camping has (and still is) closed to camping.
This regulation was in force ever since I can
remember in the early seventies. The area must have
been badly overused in earlier years, and is a
testimony to how long it takes for an area to recover
once it has been abused. The trail skirts this lake at
a slightly higher elevation point, and I rarely have
seen anyone go down and explore it's shores.
After Mirror Lake, the trail turns rocky and gets
down to serious business. There will be many
steps to negotiate, and you will soon be above
timberline where trees are no longer able to grow
due to the environmental conditions of high
altitude. This is also the point where most people
begin to feel the effect of altitude on their bodies.
Make sure to get plenty of water, and do not rush
yourself. Altitude has a way of sucking water out
of your body, and exhausting yourself along with
dehydration is a good way to get sick. So take it
easy and concentrate on proper breathing and
water intake.
Years ago while hiking up Mt Whitney, I took this
picture of horses and mules ascending the trail
between Mirror Lake and Trail Camp. One can
certainly learn a lesson from these creatures. They
are slow but steady, but they soon outpaced us and
disappeared. One mistake people make in the
mountains is setting too fast a pace for themselves
or their party. Far better to set a pace that you
can maintain all day with few stops, then to rush
along and take breaks every 15 minutes or so. I
will never forget long ago while doing Mt Whitney
with my dad rushing from point to point so fast and
getting to Trail Camp in record time only to sit down exhausted and unable to go on. We were soon passed by
a man whom we had nearly spun in circles when we passed him lower down the trail. As he passed us, he
turned and said..... "boys, I told you....take it slow and easy.....one step at a time. That's the way to make the
top" That man was over 70 years old while I was in my early twenties. I never forgot that advise, and it has
served me well over the many years I have been mountaineering.
At the 5 mile point you come to beautiful
Trail Side Meadow. You are not allowed
to camp here, but it is a great place to rest
those tired bones while enjoying some of
the most wonderfully lush scenery on
Mt Whitney. At 11,400 feet, the trees are
gone, but the stream fed greenery helps
make this rest stop well worth while. If you
are low on water or need to fuel up with
lunch or just a well deserved snack, this
is the place to do it. We choose this location
for our lunch stop and we thoroughly
enjoyed it.
Trail Side Meadow in early season is a virtual playground. Above Eddie makes use of a nearby snow slope for
a little entertainment. The meadow area is also home to a beautiful meandering stream as shown in the above
right hand image. Be sure to minimize your impact on this fantastic meadow so that others will be able to
enjoy it in the future. It is areas like this that add so much to the experience of hiking up Mt Whitney.
As you proceed
up the trail after
Trail Side Meadow
you will continue
to work your way
up many more
large rocky steps
as shown to the
left until you get
to Consultation
Lake (frozen
middle left side
portion of the
photo to the left). Consultation Lake is only about a half mile from Trail Camp so if that is your destination
for the day, you are nearly there. The shores of Consultation Lake are desolate indeed, and very few Whitney
hikers take the time out to visit this barren lake. But if you want solitude or just want to get away from the
crowds of people in the more established camps, then Consultation Lake may just be your ticket.
As the scene to the left comes into view
you can be assured that Trail Camp is very
close by. This camp is one of the most
crowed backpacking campsites in all the
Sierra Nevada Mountains. Most people
who backpack Mt Whitney to reach the
summit use this camp as a launching point
for reaching the top. Trail Camp is located
at 12,000 feet elevation and 6 miles from
the Whitney Portal parking lot. Lots of
activity in and around Trail Camp. It once
had a solar toilet but due to abuse,
(people putting trash in the toilets)
the structure (unfortunately) has now been
removed. Hikers and backpackers are now
required to pack out their own human (solid)
waste in bags provided by the forest service.
You receive these bags when you pick up your
permit. You may consider this a pain, but it is
no big deal, and when you see the crowds that
visit Mt Whitney you will clearly understand
why this is a must. The camp would be
uninhabitable if people neglected this
responsibility. For more about Trail Camp,
you can visit the following Link on this site:
High Camp on Whitney
After Trail Camp, the trail begins the
infamous switchbacks. The trek from Trail
Camp to Trail Crest gains altitude quickly
and once at Trail Crest you only have
797 vertical feet to go in order to reach the
summit. The picture to the right (that was
taken from Trail Camp with a large
telephoto lens), shows the cable section of
the switchbacks that many people worry
about while hiking up Mt Whitney. As you
can see, snow and ice tend to collect at this
point in the trail, and thus the need for the
added safety of the cable railing. Stones
have also been placed here to raise the hiker above the water runoff that often turns to ice during the night.
But even the cables can be rendered useless in early season, so check trail conditions if you plan on hiking Mt
Whitney in spring or in early summer during years of heavy snowfall. Crampons and ice ax (and the
knowledge of how to use them) may be necessary during these times.
Trail Crest is your next destination after you have completed the 97-99 switchbacks, and as mentioned on
the Mt Whitney base camp page, is one of the most beautiful scenes in all the Sierra.
You have now completed 8.2 miles of your one way 11 mile trek to the top of Mt Whitney. The elevation is
now 13,700 feet above sea level. This is the official elevation despite the reading on the sign. It was placed
there many years ago, and since then most authorities put the elevation a hundred feet higher at 13,700. You
are now entering Sequoia National Park. Mt Whitney itself lies within the park, and this section of the trail is
shared by the famous John Muir Trail that starts out in Happy Isles Yosemite. For more on Trail Crest
click here.
There is 2.8 miles to go, and because you will be hiking well above 13,000 feet the whole way, it seems
longer than it really is. You are breathing 1/3 less oxygen, and your heart is going to have to work extra hard
keeping up with the demand that is placed on it by your muscles screaming for more O2. After Trail Crest,
the trail descends a bit and then continues in a slight up and down pattern before making it's last turn upward
before reaching the summit.
Not far from Trail Crest is the Mt Whitney Trail / John
Muir Trail junction. This famous junction is where
Sequoia National Park hikers join Main Mt Whitney
Trail hikers. Continu